Coffee is having something of a fashionable moment in Paris, a city long derided for its substandard roasts. And at the vanguard of the bean revolution are David Flynn and Nicolas Clerc of the hot new cafe T?lescope, which proved an instant hit when it opened behind the Palais Royal?s illustrious arcades in April. Clerc, a Parisian photographer, and Flynn, the American co-founder of the monthly barista throwdown Frog Fight, also happen to be very attuned to the city?s evolving culinary scene. They?re as discerning about the food they eat as the coffee they brew and drink.
Their cafe caters to a style-conscious crowd and is surrounded by independent designers, vintage shops and international labels, including Marc Jacobs, Kitsun?, Rick Owens and Stella McCartney. So this week, Clerc and Flynn are steeling themselves for the Paris Fashion Week throngs, who, in between shows, will be asking themselves ? and their baristas ? the eternal question: Where should we eat? Here?s what Clerc and Flynn recommend.
Le Bal Caf?
Before teaming up with Clerc, Flynn worked as a barista at this art space and cafe. He can speak firsthand about the quality of the ingredients used for the Anglo-inspired menu (which rotates daily). While most people know Le Bal for its above-par coffee and weekend brunch, Flynn insists ?its real secret is dinner? (6 impasse de la D?fense, 18th Arrondissement).
Kunitoraya 2
The more gussied-up outpost of the Japanese udon haven of the same name, Kunitoraya 2 is literally T?lescope?s next-door neighbor. Convenience aside, the two say it?s a Paris standout: ?Hard to beat the excellence of Japanese food and service with a classic French bistro setting,? said Flynn (5 rue Villedo, 1st Arrondissement).
Roseval
The chefs Michael Greewold and Simone Tondo, of the Chateaubriand and Rino kitchens respectively, pooled their culinary acumen and opened Roseval earlier this summer, a neo-bistro in the still gritty but refreshingly dynamic Menilmontant neighborhoood just below Belleville. Clerc says that part of the restaurant?s charm, in addition to its fantastic menu and wine pairings, comes from its bare-bones d?cor: ?It?s beautifully designed ? nothing but two fantastic lamps! Everything here is done with taste and simplicity.? Reservations recommended (1 rue d?Eupatoria, 20th Arrondissement).
Song Heng
As in most international cities, Asian fare in Paris is best when consumed from unadorned holes in the wall or to-go joints. At this Vietnamese canteen in the northern Marais, menu options are limited to pho or the bo bun, which is billed as some of the best in the city. The only real choice, Clerc jokes, comes from the portion size: ?enormous or gigantic!? Elbow-to-elbow seating, lunch service only (3 rue Volta, Third Arrondissement).
Sardegna a Tavola
Authentic Sardinian dishes, each of irreproachable quality, and a gregarious welcome from the owner Tonino Simbula make it easy to overlook the campy d?cor at this old Right Bank favorite. ?I love Tonino because his food is like him: straightforward!,? says Clerc, who suggests ordering the succulent gnocchi with fennel sausages, the grouper carpaccio or, if particularly ravenous, the roasted baby lamb. Lunch and dinner service, book ahead (1 rue de Cotte, 12th Arrondissement).
L?Entr?e des Artistes
Chiefly known for its knockout cocktails and a wine list filled with organic and biodynamic options, this laid-back 11th Arrondissement bar tops Flynn?s late-night dining list for its simple, small plates (charcuterie, burrata, foie gras) and old-school style. Drinks and food served until 2 a.m. (8 rue de Crussol, 11th Arrondissement).
Source: http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/09/25/in-paris-restos-for-fashions-restless/
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